Beiträge von maddox

TZ85a 's

Hannibalito 5 on Brushless.

We had anothern event. Utrecht was a repeat of FACTS.
Hannibalito 3 kept on being obnoxious, this time frying drives by the bucketload.
Probably sulking because Hannibalito 5 was trying to take the limelight.

Hannibalito5 , in sympathy and/or respect for the elder brother, fried the drive too....

Kashei, the weapon got some improvements, tested it to an inch of its life at home, seemed ok. First fight at the event, a gear that never failed, came lose... That is welded now. Next point of failure please.

Perun, charge battery, replace shredded wheels, ready. Untill the ESC failed mechanicaly.

Nebelwerfer 4... The show is on. This small monster is feared now in the Dutch/Belgian/German 6 kg class.

And that's what prompted a small rebuild.
The aluminium/titanium sandwich frame is replaced with a full welded titanium frame. The disk went from 800 grams of destruction to more than 1 kg.

And we went to far in the idea of an undercutter. Went undergroundcutter.

The most important bit of welding titanium is to keep it in an argon bath. Do not let air touch the glowing ti.

Idealy you weld it in a glove box filled with argon.

The sheet was 3mm, but this frame is layered, so we have 6mm total. The 20mm disk-shaft is also welded in, adding stiffness and strength to the whole.

After the event in Utrecht, we started improving Nebelwerfer.

The biggest change is a pure Ti grade 5 frame... Lighter, stiffer and stronger.

Just to give an idea how Battery drills can be adapted to drives.

Ranglebox Neptune (no longer available)

REC gearbox, by Guilherme, a Portugese roboteer.

Maxifuses go to 80amp for "brand" quality, but I have seen 100A variants. For higher amps, you should look for high end car audio fuses.

if acceleration*mass is a weapon (spinner), Perun is a very low power full body spinner.

Perun is a Sportsman class machine?

There is a limitation of stored kinetic energy. The one that dictates how well the robot turns.
For example, Valkiri 3 on full power turned like a beached whale with me on the stick.

The machine had a batterie-ectomy in Antwerp, but the disk is still in there.

If someone doesn't want to fight a seemingly unbeatable all destroying machine, it's not a problem.

There is nobody forcing anybody to do that.

But in the end, the name of the game is Robot Wars, not Elsa's Winterpalace or even bumpercars.

As you can see, it's not all boasting for team RCC

After reading this thread.

• Wasn't the raptor class not ment as the sportmans class in Germany?
• Whatever limitations are proposed, people will try to use those to the limit. The complete series of Nebelwerfers is the point in case.
• Armor. Hannibalito 3 survived 9 years with only 10mm of HDPE as armor. It's only recently we upped that to 12mm and reinforced the front. Nebelwerfer uses 5mm HDPE as main shell around the critical parts. Only the wheel-arches are thicker, and that's because we needed the thickness to put the bolts trough. So, no, you don't need high strenght steel or titanium to have useable armor.
• Spinners. Not that easy to do well. easy enough to take bigger motors, batteries and disks. But having the machine survive its own force, that's another matter.
• Personal opinion. If you can't stand the heat, stay out of the kitchen.

Originaly, there was a mistake, and the order of 2 disks from a full sheet became 20 disks. That is why there are quite a few of those. And still in use by less used machines.

If I recall correctly, Twisted Sister is using one now.

In the Netherlands, there are 2 disks on machines. The old Plofbox 2 (still using speed 900's) and Argh (Valkiri1)

450 is way to soft for a disk. 500 wears out in a few fights.
The only disks I know of that keep on going are the 8mm thick 200mm diameter Hardox 600 monsters from Christian.

It was the weaponsystem of Valkiry2.

The disk is 8mm Creusabro 4000.

We changed to 12mm Hardox 500 + after Valkiri 2.
And are contemplating going 15mm.

Pity you're not going for the better supported IBF series of ESC's.

The paintball bottles use an US thread, that is for all intend and purpose the same size as a G1/2 (=1/2BSP)

One option to fill your own pinball bottles from a bigger CO2 bottle.

https://www.paintball-land.de/co2-fuellstation/a-1112/

Or take the GRA filling station as an example. A few hydraulic connector bits and bobs and create your own.