Lo-Fi Shell Spinner

Just making a custom hubmotor ring spinner after seeing Wajoo in person. That bot was incredibly awesome and really wanted to make something similar as that incredibly flat bot

There were no super flat motors i was happy with and my grandpa gave me some harddrive motors and after a little bit of testing i found out that i can easily convert it into a hubmotor (Though i have to change almost everything in it so i would just say its a fully custom motor at that point.)

Its a little sad i can't really send a video of it working but the motor KV is around 1500Kv~ And it is pretty darn strong and fast which i was super super happy about.

Some Info about the motor

Stator:
15 Poles
0.3mm Enamelled copper wire
25 turns per pole
125 turns per phase
375 turns total
42mm OD, 2.5mm Height, 20mm ID
Magnets:
16
N35
2mm thick
4mm wide
8mm long


What i did to make the hubmotor work:

Rewind the HDD Motor (See Specs)
Make a new magnet ring
New steel can
(I hope it can be seen why i just call it as a whole DIY motor- Really the only thing left from the motor is the stator- Otherwise everything else is completely different.)

There are still a few issues like spinup but when it gets spinning its a viscious force that i just cant wait to see hit something in the arena

Quote from Krümmel

Do you use blheli esc? Try lower timings.

I use a AM32 ESC

Though i will keep in mind the lower timings when i finish it and test it

Forgot to update here-

Some parts arrived and now Im just waiting on the electronics and metal parts for Lo-Fi to come.

There are also some other changes and plans i have for Lo-Fi that i have to work on-

Bottom plate to be a PCB that will also help me distribute power across the whole bot without too many wires everywhere. Most likely will order the PCB's from PCBway. i also want to make a screw switch built in because it'll be safer than a link and a LOT more compact than 2 switches that will probably die (see them in pic below-)

Instead of buying brushed ESC's just reprogram a Brushless esc with the Hydra firmware thing so i can drive my brushed motors easier and save space

Instead of M3 Heat inserts directly into the print i will be using 4 hex standoffs and m2.5 bolts.
1mm Polycarb topplate
3D printed chassis (TPU)
PCB bottom plate
And just tighten it as hard as i can from the bottom and top so its sandwiched really well.

Oh thats great to know! Now i can actually get to designing that PCB knowing i can use a screwswitch

Didnt see the beetle with the switch but as runsler said lets not discuss it here-

Metal parts arrived!

all holes are done and tapped (besides magnet ring)

Now with the impactors in place there are only two steps till i'm done with the shell.
(1 i'm still deciding on)
1A : Drill out 1mm holes in the hardox magnet ring to bolt the topplate to the steel ring

1B : Carve out 0.2mm or so into the topplate's bottom then pressfit the magnet ring in and epoxy it with the highest strength epoxy i can find (without drilling said holes)

2 : Red loctite every single bolt

and then the true last step is to paint the ring

Going with 1B and .5mm instead of .2

Gonna have to see if i can use the makerspace CNC for a even and flat cut in on the underside of the topplate and if it can make it a pressfit

pcb design time

All parts are now on hand besides the drive motors. Can't wait to order the PCB's and finally solder everything on it

It should be completely fine- Spinner has 0.5mm clearance from the floor and bottom plate bolts have 0.25mm clearance So it shouldn't have any friction to a smooth floor due to those bolts

Hopefully it doesnt spin the chassis the other way too much when spinning up